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Author - Mark Fellowes

Khush Aamdeed….Welcome

Crossing the Wagah border was literally a sight for sore eyes, but in a nice way. With exhaust fumes of the past few weeks enough to make the eyes water and the throat raspy, it’s been nice to have a little less traffic to compete with. Roads have also improved. Streets are wider, cleaner and there are parks with trees & grass, something I haven’t seen in a while...

Sign here please

The crossing into Pakistan via the Grand Trunk Road went pretty smoothly despite taking several hours for all the paperwork to be completed. I’d been told the only road border between the two countries opened at 8.30am, though on this occasion the Indian side didn’t begin until 10am. A huge line of trucks bringing goods in from Pakistan delayed the proceedings...

A shave and a haircut…two bob

No fancy unisex salon here, just an outdoor setting with an old barber’s chair, a large audience and a lot of laughs. Not sure the haircut would win the stylist’s award of the year, but it didn’t cost me an arm and a leg either. At the Golden Tulip Hotel, Amritsar I revelled in the luxury of room service, hot baths, the morning paper delivered, restaurant...

Music to my ears

I’ve grown used to the constant rhythm of when the FN is running smoothly. If the sounds change ever so slightly and I find myself adjusting the throttle and air lever, I know that there is contamination in the carburetor jet.  If the engine doesn’t respond and hiccups instead, I know the inlet valve springs are collapsing. I can gauge how much lubrication the engine...